Sewing-machine



H. D. ELLIOTT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT: 21, 1918.

Patented Jan. 25, 1921.

3 SHEETSSHEET I.

H. D. ELLIOTT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 21. 1918.

Patented Jan. 25, 1921.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

H. D. ELLIOTT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 21, 1918. 1,366,527, Patented Jan. 25, 1921.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

w 120-, 14 126-"; 116 I m f 4 04* 104- J 1 I m p4 "1 6 ii 202 106 1m 1 1m UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY D. ELLIOTT, OE BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF ,PATERSON, NEW

NEW JERSEY.

JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF sEwmGmAcnINE.

Specification of Letters Patent. Pat t d J 25 1 2 Application filed September 21, 1918. Serial No. 255,143;

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that'I, HARRY D. ELLIOTT,

a citizen of the United States, residing at' Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements .in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear,.and exact descrip- .-tion, of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. J

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines in which a work clamp and a stitch-forming mechanism are relatively movable to sew an overseam about a button hole.

The primary object of the invention is to provide the machine shown and described in Patent No. 1,276,357 August 20th, 1918, with means for automatically severing and holding, the upper needle thread at the end of the sewing, with means for conveniently and quickly making adjustment for sewing different lengths of buttonholes, with means for readily changing the machine to sew flybar or unbarred buttonholes, and with means for manually opening the clamp. It Will'be understood, however, that the various features of the invention are not confined in their application to this machine, or limited to the specific construction in which they have been embodied in incorporating them in this machine. The various features of the invention will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings and the following detailed description of the mechanism illustrated therein.

In the drawings, Figure is a side elevation showing so much of the machine of the above patent as is necessary to illustrate the application of the present invention thereto; Fig. 2 is a detail 'view of the cam for moving the work clamp laterally; Fig. 3 is a partial sectional elevationshowing the clutch controlling devices; Fig. 4 is a see tional view on line 4, Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a detail sectional View on line 5, Fig. 3; Fig. 6 is a detail view of the adjusting pinions shown in Fig. 3; and Figs. 7 to 14. are detail views showing the operation of the thread cutting and holding devices.

.Except as modified in applying the features of the present invention thereto, the machine shown is the same in construction and mode of operation as the machine of the patent above referred to. This machine is constructed to sew along the sides and about the eye end of a buttonhole, and comprises generally a stitch-forming mechanism which is rotated through a half revolution in sewing about the eye of the buttonhole and is rotated in the reverse direction to initial position after the sewing is completed, a work clamp whlch is moved lengthwise and laterally of the buttonhole, a thread cutter and holder which savers and holds the upper needle thread at the completion of the sewing, and a cutter which cuts the buttonhole slit after the sewing is completed. The shaft which carries the cams for operating the work clamp, for rotating the stitch-forming mechanism, for operating the thread holder and cutter, and for operating the buttonhole cutter, is driven by a high speed clutch before and after the sewing, and is driven by the sewing clutchduring the sewing, the engagement and disengagement of the clutches being controlled by cams on the cam shaft. The cam shaft is indicated at 2, and the sewing shaft through which motion is transmitted to the stitch-forming mechanism and to the cam shaft during the sewing is indicated at 4. The high speed clutch 6 is mounted on the shaft 8 which is geared to the cam shaft, and this clutch is shifted through the operating lever 10, as in the machine of the patent. The disengagement of the high speed clutch and the engagement of the sewing clutch at the beginning of the sewing, and the disengagement of this clutch and the rengagement of the high speed clutch atthe end of'the sewing, is effected as in the machine of the patent, through the movements of the stop plunger lever 12 and of the stop plunger 14 carried thereby. The machine is started by depression of the starting lever 16 which disengages the latch 18 from the lever 10 and permits the spring utch engaging po- -tive stop the stitch-forming mechanism after the first side of the buttonhole has been stitched and again start it after it has been turned through a half revolution, thereby V adapting the machine to sew along the opposite sides of a straight buttonhole.

In the construction shown the stop plunger lever12 is shifted to disengage the high speed clutch and to engage the sewing clutch by a cam 22 adjustably mounted on the radially projecting arm of a disk 24. The disk is mounted on a bearing 26 formed on the outer face of'a carrier disk 28 which is secured to the outer end of the cam shaft. When the lever 12 is shifted by the cam 22 to start the sewing shaft, the lug 30 on the lever engages the lug 32 on the lever 10 and shifts the lever to disengage the high speed clutch. \Vhen shifted the lever 12 1s held in position by a latch lever 34,'the end of which normally rests on the upper side of the lever 12 and drops down back of the lever when it is shifted by the cam 22. The downward movement of the latch lever is limited by a laterally projecting lip 36 which rests on the end of the lever 12. The stop plunger lever is released to stop the sewing shaft and to reengage the high speed clutch by a cam 38 adjustably secured on the radially projecting arm of a disk 40 which is mounted on the bearing 26. The cam is arranged to lift the latch lever 34 and thus release the'. stop plunger lever to effect the stopping of the sewing shaft and the reengagement of the high speed clutch when the end of the buttonhole is reached.

The means for simultaneously moving the cams 22 and 38 toward or away from each other to vary the length of buttonhole sewn comprises two pinions 42 and 44 arranged to engage gear segments 46 and 48 formed on the disks 24 and'40. These pinions are secured to shafts 50 and 52 which are mounted in the cam carrier disk and are connected to turn -in.opposite directions by the intermeshing' pinions 54 on the inner ends of the shafts. The hub of the pinion 42 is slotted so that the pinions may be radially turned to effect the simultaneous adjustment of the cams 22 and 38. The cams are held in adjusted position by a clamping disk 56 which is forced against the disk 40 by the screw 58 and is held from rotation on the cam carrier disk by a pin 60. The proper adjustment for different lengths of buttonholes may be indicated bygraduations on the face of the disk 40 which are arranged to register with an indicating line on the clamping disk 56.

To adapt themachine for sewing straight buttonholes cams 62 and 64 are arranged intermediate thecams 22 and 38, and are so mounted that they may be moved into and out of position to act upon the latch lever 34 and stop plunger'lever 12. These cams are adjustably secured. upon a block 66 which. is mounted for radialadjustment on a, radially projecting arm of the cam carr1er .d1sk '28 and is secured in adjusted position by a clamping screw 68. When these cams are in active position, as indicated in Figs. 1 and 3, the cam 62 will lift the latch-lever 34 and thus stop the sewing shaft and throw in the high speed clutch when the Work clamp has reached the end of its forward travel and the sewing along the substantially straight side of the buttonhole has therefore been completed. After the stitch-forming mechanism has been turned through a half revolution by the continued forward zotation of the cam shaft, the cam 64 will shift the stop plunger lever to disengage the high speed clutch and to start the sewing shaft. The-intermediate cams 62 and 64 will therefore act to in- ,terrupt the action. of' the stitch-forming mechanism during the turning of this mech-- anism through a half revolution at the end' of the buttonhole sothat, two straight parallel seams may be'sewn extending along "opposite sides of a straight buttonhole? VVhen'the carrier block for the intermediate cams is adjusted radially inwalrd' the cams are removed from active positlon and the stitch-forming mechanism will continue in action after it is started by the cam 22 until it is stopped by the cam 38, and will sew a seam extending along the sidesand about the eye end of, an eyed buttonhole.

The clutch operating lever 10 is shifted to disengage the high speed clutch after the cam shaft has completed its revolution by a cam 70 adjustably secured on the cam carrier disk 28 and arranged to engage the end of the lever. The stopping position of the cam shaft is determined by a springpressed plunger 72 having a V-shaped end adapted to engage a corresponding recess in a plate 74 which is secured to the cam carrier 28. The plunger also engages positioning notches 76. and 78 to prevent overrunning of the cam shaft when the high speed clutch is disengaged andthe sewing shaft started.

the cam groove.

the end of the sewing is determined by the shape of the cam groove which efiects the lateral movements of the work clamp, and variation in the location .of the seam can only be effected by change in the shape of It has been necessary, therefore, to remove andreplace the lateral cam inorder to adapt a machine constructed to sew an unbarred buttonhole for sewing a fly bar buttonhole. To avoid this the lateral cam80 ofv the machine is provided with two removable segments 82 in which those parts of the cam grooves which correspond to the beginning and end of the seam are formed. These segments are ositioned by dowel pins 84 and are secured to the body of the cam by screws 86. These segments ma be readily and conveniently removed an replaced by segments in which the cam grooves are shaped to position and move the work clamp at the beginning and end of the scam in any desired manner. The machine may therefore be readily and quickly changed to sew either unbarred buttonholes or to sew buttonholes having the beginning and end of the seam superimposed in line with the buttonhole slit to form a fly bar.

It is'sometimes desirable to stop. the machine and open the clamp before the sewing cycle has been completed. To enable the operator to conveniently open the clamp a slide 88 is mounted in the clamp carriage and is arranged with its upperend within convenient reach of the operator, and with its lower end in position to engage an arm 90 projecting from the hub of the cam lever 92 throu h which the clamp isopened and closed. The slide is held in raised position by a spring 94. WVhen the cam lever 92 is rocked to close the clam the arm 90 is brought directly under t e lower end of the slide 88. If at any time during the buttonhole making'cycle the operator desires to open the clamp, he presses down the slide 88 to rock the cam lever 92 into the position indicated in F 1, and thus ,causes the opening of the clamp.

' The mechanism for automatically cutting and holding the upper needle thread at the completion of the sewing comprises a thread cutter and holder mounted upon the rotary head which carries the upper needle bar and a cam for operating the thread cutter and holder which is so mounted on the cam shaftthat it may be adjusted in accordance with the length of buttonhole being sewn. In order to insure the proper adjustment of the cam without additional attention 1 on the part of the operator, it is preferably mounted to move with the cams which determine the length of buttonhole being sewn. Adjustment of the controlling cams for any length of buttonhole is therefore accompanied by a corresponding adjustment of the thread cutter and holder cam, and the with the face of the gripper jaw 96. A cutter lever 110 is pivoted on the upper end of the jaw 96 and the lower arm of the lever carries a pin 112 adapted to engage the spring jaw 108 and force it away from the jaw 96 to open the gripper. The upper arm of the cutter lever is engaged by a spring 11%1 whichtends to swing the lower end of the lever across the edge of the gripper jaw 96 and into position to close the gripper. The hub 98 of the cutter and holder is provided with an upwardly projecting arm 116 which is normally held against the head 104 by the spring 118. The upper end of the arm and the upper end of the cutter lever are arranged to be operated upon at the end of the sewing by the forward end of a lever 120, the rear end of which is connected by a link 122- with an arm 124 secured to the rock shaft which carries the latch lever 34.

At the beginning of the sewing the thread cutter and gripper is in the position indicated in Figs. 1*, 7 and 10, in which the gripper jaws are located at one side of the needle path and are holding the end of the through. a half revolution in sewing about the eye of a buttonhole the thread holder and gripper will be turned through a half revolution from the position indicated 1n Figs. 7 and 10 andwill be brought into the position indicated in Fig. 8, in which the upper end of the arm 116 and the upper end of the cutter lever 110 are in position to be operated upon by the forward end of the lever 120; After the sewing shaft has been stopped by the action of the cam 38 on the latch lever- 34., continued rotation of the cam shaft brings a thread holder and cutter operating cam 126 into engagement with the end of the latch lever 34;, and this cam gives the latch lever an additional or abnormal movement which depresses the forward end of the lever 120 so that it acts on the thread cutter and holder. 'During the first part of this movement of the lever 120 its acts upon the. upper end of the cutter position indicated in Fig. 11. This movement of the cutter lever opens the gripper jaws, and also moves the lower end of the cutter lever into position to permit the passage of the thread between it and the gripper jaw 96, as indicated in Fig. 11. The continued movement of the lever 120 brings it into engagement with the arm 116 so that the cutting and gripping jaws are swung toward the needle path, as indicated in Fig.- 8, and pass on opposite sides of the thread leading from the needle to the work. This movement of the thread cutter and gripper also carries the upper end of the cutter lever forward so that a spring-pressed latch slide 128 which was forced back by the upper end of the lever when the lever was moved from the position of Fig. 10 to the position of Fig. 11 snaps forward back of the upper end of the lever and temporarily retains the thread holder and cutter in posi tion. hen the lever 34; rides off of the end of the cam 126 the forward end of the cam lever 120 is raised to release the thread holder and cutter. The spring 114 now swings the cutter lever from the position indicated in Fig. 11 to that indicated in lig. 12, so that the jaws of the thread-holding gripper are closed to grip the thread and the lower end of the cutter lever e'ooperating with the edge of the gripper jaw 96 severs the thread. This movementof the cutter lever carries the upper end to the right of the latch slide 128, as indicated in Fig. 12, so that the spring 118 swings the thread holder and cutter back into normal position, as indicated in Fig. 9. The threadholder continues to'hold the end of the needle thread until the initial stitches of the succeeding seam have been sewn and the feed of the work draws the end of the thread from between the jaws of the gripper. 4 The cam 126 for operating the thread cutter and holder is preferably formed on the same block with the cam 38 so that it will be adjusted with the cam 38 when the position of said cam is varied for different lengths of buttonholes.

At the completion of the sewing the tension on the upper needle threadis released by the forward movement of the stop plunger into the stopping depression in the stop cam 130. As the plunger moves forward into this depression, an arm 132 which .projectsfrom a block secured on the upper end of the plunger engages a pin projecting from an arm 13% which is secured to a rock shaft 136. The rock shaft carries a second arm 138, the upper end of which engages the rear end of the tension releasing rod 140. \Vhen the tension releasing lever formed by the arm 132, rock shaft 136 and arm 138 is operated to release the tension, it is held in tension releasing position by the latch lever 142, the forward end of which engages the notched end of an arm 141 first stitch-forming cycle.

lVhile it ispreferred to employ the specific construction and arrangement of parts shown and described in embodying the various features of the invention in the machine ofthe patent above referred to, it will be understood that this construction and arrangement is not essential to the broader features of the invention and may be varied or modified as found desirable or best suited to theconstruction and 'mode of operation of the machine in which the invention is to be embodied.

What is claimed is:

1. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, feed mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and clamp to sew about a buttonhole, a sewing shaft connected to drive the feed mechanism, driving and stopping mechanism for the sewingshaft controllingdevices moving in time with the feed mechanism for determining'the points in the relative travel of the stitch-forming mechanism and work clamp at which the sewing 'begins and ends,

and mechanism for simultaneously adjusting said devices toward or away fr m each other to vary the length of but onhole sewed.

2. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, feed mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and clamp to sew about a button hole, a sewing shaft connected to drive the feed mechanism,

driving and stopping mechanism for the sewing shaft, controlling cams moving in time with the feed mechanism for determining the points in the relative travel of the stitch-forming mechanism and work clamp at which the sewing begins and ends, and mechanism for simultaneously adjusting said cams toward or away from each other to vary the length of buttonhole sewed.

3. A sewing machine, having, in vcombination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, feed mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and clamp to sew about a buttonhole, a sewing shaft connected to drive the feed mechanism, driving and stopping mechanism for the sewing shaft, controlling cams for the driving and stopping mechanism moving in time with the feed mechanism and arranged to start and stop the sewing on opposite sides of the button hole and at equal distances frol 1 its eye end, and means for simultaneously adjusting said cams toward or away from each other to vary the length of the buttonhole sewed.

4. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, a feed cam shaft provided with a feed cam, two concentric disks connected to rotate in time with the feed cam shaft,

means on one disk for controlling the starting of the stitch-forming mechanism, means on the other disk for controlling the stopping of the stitch-forming mechanism, and means for simultaneously adjusting the disks in opposite directions to vary the length of butt-onhole sewed.

5. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, a feed cam shaft rovided with a feed cam, two concentric disks connected to rotate in time with thefeed cam shaft, a cam on one disk for starting the stitchforming mechanism, a cam on the other disk for stopping the stitclrforming mechanism, and means for simultaneously adjusting the disks in opposite directions to vary the length of buttonhole sewed.

6. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, a feed cam shaft provided with a feed cam, two concentric disks connected to rotate in time with the feed ca shaft, a cam on one disk for starting/ the stitchforming mechanism, a cam on the other disk for stopping the stitch-forming mechanism, and pinions engaging gear segments on the disks and connected to rotate the disks in opposite directions.

sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, mechanism for reciprocating the clamp and for turning the stitch-forming mechanism through a half revolution at the end of the forward travel of the clamp, means for starting and stopping the stitchforming mechanism at a predetermined point in the forward and return travel of the clamp, and means adjustable into or out of active position for interrupting the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism while it is being turned through said half revolution.

8. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, a feed cam shaft connected to reciprocate the clamp and to turn the stitchforming mechanism through a half revolution at the end of the forward travel of the clamp, controlling cams connected to rotate in time with the shaft for starting and stopping the stitch-forming mechanism, and intermediate cams adjustable into and out of active position for interrupting the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism while it is being turned through said half revolution.

9. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, a feed cam shaft connected to reciprocate the clamp and to turn the stitchforming mechanism through a half revolution at the end of the forward travel of the clamp, high speed driving mechanism for the shaft, a sewing shaft connected to operate the stitch-forming mechanism and to rotate the feed cam shaft during the sewing, driving and stopping mechanism for the sewing shaft, a cam carrier rotating in time with the cam shaft and provided with cams for disengaging the high speed drive and starting the sewing shaft at" one end of the buttonhole and for stopping the sewing shaft and reengaging the high speed drive at the same end/ of the buttonhole and with intermediatecams adjustable into position to stop the sewing shaft and reengage the high speed drive at the end of the forward travel of the clamp and to dis engage the high speed drive and start the sewing shaft after the stitch-forming mechanism has been turned through said half revolution.

10. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, a feed cam shaft connected to reciprocate the work clamp, a cam for moving the work clamp laterallyprovided witlrre- 'placeable sections in which are formed those portions of the cam which determine the lateral position of the clamp during the sewing of the initial and final portions of the seam.

1.1. A sewing machine, having, in combi nation, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, a clamp carriage, a cam, lever on the carriage through which the clamp is automatically closed and opened, mechanism for relatively moving the clamp and stitchforming mechanism to sew about a button hole, and a manually operable device on the carriage for operating the lever to open the clamp.

12. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, mechanism for reciprocating the clamp, mechanism for starting and stopping the stitch-forming mechanism adjustable to vary the length of the buttonhole sewed, thread cutting and holding devices, and actuating means therefor adjustable to compensate for variations in the length of the buttonhole.

13. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanisimia work clamp, mechanism for reciprocating the the stitch-forming mechanism, controlling,

clamp, mechanism for starting and stopping during the sewing, awhigh speed drive for the feed mechanism, cams connected to move in time with the feed mechanism 'for controlling the throwing in and out of the high speed and sewing shaft drives adjust- .able to, vary the length of the buttonhole sewed, a thread cutter and holder and an actuating cam therefor connected to move in timewith the feed mechanism and adjustable to compensate'for variations in the length of the buttonhole. k

15. A sewing machine, having,-in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, feed mechanism'for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and clamp to sew about a buttonhole, a sewing 1 shaftconnected to drive the feed mechanism during the sewing, a high speed drive for the feed mechanism, cams connected to move in time with the feed mechanism for controlling the throwing in and out of the' high speed and sewing shaft drives adjustable to vary. the length of the buttonhole vsewed a thread cutter and holder, and an actuating cam thereforconnected'to move in time with the feedmechanism and adjustable with-the cam for determining'the point in the feed at which the sewing stops.

a and stitch-forming mechanism to sew-about a buttonhole, and mechanism'for actuating.

16. A.sewing machine, having, in combination, a rotary stitch-forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocating upper needle, thread severing and gripping jaws mounted to rotate with the stitch-forming mechanism and-to swing toward and away from the needle .path, a work clamp, feed mechanism for relatively'moving the clamp the jaws at the completion" of the-b tton hole to sever and hold the thread, i v I 3 l7. A sewingmachine, having,-iin combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocating upper needle, a rotary carrier for the needle, thread "severing and gripping jaws mounted to swing laterally on the carrier, mechanism for opening to jaws, swinging them toward the thread, closing them, and returning .them to initial position at the completion of a buttonhole to sever and hold the thread.

18. A'sewing machine, having,in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocating upper needle, a rotary carrier for the needle, a horizontal pivot on the carrier, an approximately vertical gripper jaw mounted on the 'PlVOt, a cutter-leveripivoted to swing transversely of the gripper jaw, and means for operating the lever and for swinging the jaw on its pivot,,- awork clamp, and feed mechanism.

for-relatively moving the clamp and stitchfloiiming mechanism to sew about a button- 19. A sewing machine," having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a 'vertically'reciprocating upper needle, a rotary carrier for the needle,a horizontal pivot on the carrier, an approximately vertical-gripper jaw mounted on the pivot, a cutter lever mounted to swing laterally on the jaw, a second gripper aw moving with the lever, a spring for holding the vertical gripper jaw in normal position, a spring for closing the cutter lever, an operating lever for openin the cutter lever and then rockmg'the'ver icaljaw, and a spring latch for engaging.the lever and retaining the vertical jaw in position until the. lever is closed,- a work clamp and feed mechanism for relatively moving the clamp and stitch-forming mechanism to sew abouta button hole.

20. A sewing machine, havlng, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism which is rotated through a'half revolution at the eye end of ;the buttonhole and through a half revolution in the reverse direction between successive sewing cycles, devices for cutting and} holding the upper thread mounted tOiiOtate with j the stitch-forming mechanism,"and actuatin which the cutting and lio ding devices register whenturned a half revolution from their position "at the beginning of the sewing.

v HARRY D. ELLIOTT.

mechanism with 

